Listen to the bells. Somehow in Venice there are always bells. Watch the vaporettos as they let passengers off in front of the hotel, the occasional pigeon alighting on the railing. Drink an  Italian wine. The Terrazza Danieli has over 200 varieties, from all over Italy, many from vineyards with small productions of quality grapes that produce wines of great integrity. And sample the delicious creations of Executive Chef Gian Nicola Colucci.

We were there for lunch while at the Peggy Guggenheim Gallery in Dorsoduro across the Canal, an exhibition of Maurice Pendergaest's works was underway. The artist had come to Venice many times, was intrigued with Venetian scenes. The Danieli had partnered with the Guggenheim, having created a package of museum tickets and hotel stays that included a special menu by Chef Daniel Boluchi inspired by the artist's works: potato dumplings in different colors in a black ink sauce, gnocchi with pumpkins, giant prawns, grouper, an arrangement of different dishes in a galaxy of colors. Just a sampling of the outstanding cuisine, the many pastas, excellent seafoods and meat dishes the Terrazza Danieli is known for.

Executive Chef Gian Nicola Colucci.

We set off for lunch at Locanda Cipriani a day after the lunch at Terrazza Danieli. We must have done something right -how lucky could we be.  Our water taxi wound its way through the Grand Canal to the Laguna de Venezia north of Venice. Out in the open lagoon, it sped across the waters to the island of Torcello where off a canal stood Locana Cipriani, the exquisite small hotel and restaurant created by Giuseppe Cipriani, founder of the world-famous Harry's Bar in Venice.

We were only ten kilometers from St Marks Square but in an environ that belied any thought of crowds and clutter. It was a brilliantly beautiful October afternoon, a very early autumnal day in Italy. The outdoor dining terrace overlooked abundant gardens abloom with roses, dahlias, pomegranate trees laden with golden fruits providing a visual experience that was only enhanced by an exceptional dining experience. We drank a deep red Chianti and dined on freshly made pasta, vegetables just picked from the garden, and a selection of grilled fish from the Adriatic.  What a pleasure it was to sit at a table in the sunshine amidst other tables filled with discerning and delighted diners. 

On the way

Crossing the lagoon

Dorsoduro, the charming Venetian community of narrow canals and sunlit piazzas on the southernmost side of the Grand Canal, has three world-class museums and many art galleries. Among them is the intimate and welcoming Galleria d'Arte l'Occhio where younger and local artists are featured among the more celebrated. In this latter category is Tobia Ravà whose hypnotic works focus on Hebrew iconography and mystical connections to the Kabbalah.

We did leave our hearts in Venice. But at the same time, we went on to enjoy a swift, splendid and luxurious transfer from sea level up into the mountains of the Italian Alps via Carey Worldwide Chauffeured Services. A scenic drive in what had to be record time brought us to the doorstep of the Dolomites and the next chapter of an Italian adventure.

Hotel Danieli
Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196
Comune: 30122 Venice
Provincia: VENEZIA

Phone: +39 041 782714
Web: http://www.terrazzadanieli.com 

Locanda Cipriani Piazza
Santa Fosca 29
30142 Torcello, Venezia Italy

Phone: (+39) 041 730150
emaiL: info@locandacipriani.com

Galleria d'Arte l'Occhio
Dorsoduro 181, calle San Gregorio

Phone: 041 522 6550
Web: http://www.gallerialocchio.net/Francesco.ve@oltrex.it

Verte
Carey Worldwide Chauffeured Services
Via P. Matteucci 7/9
00154 Rome, Italy

Phone: 39 06 57302021

Maurizio Dolci, General Manager

Photographs by Harvey Frommer