Tasting the
Exotic:
Unexpectedly
Royal Persian Cuisine
SACRAMENTO, CA – Sometimes only the unusual
will hit and satisfy the spot. Recently I had an urge for
Persian food so I asked my life partner if she would like to
go to Berkeley,
California, to our favorite Persian restaurant,
Khyam’s. She declined on grounds that Berkeley is a four
hour round trip from Sacramento,
where we live. The food there may be wonderful, but one must
draw the line somewhere, she opined. I usually know well
enough to go along when she’s being reasonable like
that.
But still… Did you ever have your lips
completely set for something, only to run into a reasonable
human being’s reasonable objections? It can be very
frustrating. Then I had a brainstorm.
Why not try the "Famous Kabob" place right around
the corner? We had driven by it at least a hundred times. She
agreed to try it, and I will be forever glad that sometimes
– maybe even usually – she is more reasonable than
I am.
Famous Kabob is a wonderful place to
dine, once you know it’s there. It is hidden away in
little strip mall right off the Interstate 80 Business route,
just northeast of Sacramento, at 1290 Fulton Ave. (See map detail.) The unprepossessing front is
neighbor to a pizza carry-out and a convenience store. The
Famous Kabob sign simply doesn’t give a clue to the
culinary delights that await the adventurous diner who
finally decides to try this unlikely next-to-the-minimart
restaurant.
When you enter you may doubt your eyes at first. The
storefront has been extensively remodeled inside to create a
dining space both uncrowded and airy. There is plenty of
ambient light without the distraction of street activity.
Etched glass, mirrors and Persian prints make a décor that
delights the eye to the point that the asphalt wasteland just
outside seems to disappear. Tables are attractively set and
the settings include fresh flowers.
Genuine Persian
Cuisine
The owners, Roger Sanati and Gusem (Sam) Babaei, are
Iranian immigrants. Roger has been in this country for about
30 years and is now a naturalized citizen. Sam has been in
the US for about 15 years. The restaurant is a family
operation. I met both owners and Sam’s beautiful wife
Mina as well as their 4 year old daughter Keanna.
Sam arrived in the US with an MS degree in business
administration from the Commerce School of Tehran,
and he has clearly put his education to good use. On this
day, though, I was much more interested in the MK (Master of
the Kitchen) I’m sure he earned somewhere along the way,
although he didn’t mention it. He has long experience in
the business of feeding people, having been involved in an
officer’s club as well as company dining room ventures
in Iran. Since coming to Sacramento, he has owned or operated
three other successful restaurants. One of Sam’s secrets
is that he grew up knowing what makes a good Persian meal. A
close family member was employed as a food taster for the
Iranian royal family when Sam was a child, so he was able to
sample traditional Persian dishes prepared without cost
constraints. This gave him a high standard for food that he
refers to as "royal taste" and he strives to meet
that standard in every dish that goes out of the kitchen.
His background shows. The food he prepares is
stunningly delicious.
Royal Taste, Reasonable
Cost
"Royal taste" doesn’t mean royal prices.
Entrees range from $8 to $15 on the dinner menu with luncheon
menu items slightly less. Sam’s philosophy of cooking is
simply this: Use the best authentic ingredients, prepare them
carefully and serve them artistically. For instance, here is
his recipe for Basmati
rice prepared in the
Persian way:
Rinse the rice in slightly
warm water, gently so as not to break the grains, until
the rinse water is clear. Drain it and soak overnight in
salt water. (Sam prefers rock salt but has difficulty
finding it in chunks large enough to distinguish it
reliably from the grains of rice.) Drain rice and place
in rapidly boiling water for 5 to 7 minutes. Drain again.
Steam in just the right amount of water and cottonseed
oil, covered with a steam cloth, on a high flame for ten
minutes. Reduce flame and steam another 15 minutes or so
until a moistened finger sizzles on the bottom of the
pan. This produces the ta dig (the crispy part that
browns and coats the pan slightly.)
Sam prepares no more than ten servings at a time, since
the rice will only hold well for a limited time. This is a
side dish served with most of the entrees. One can substitute
salad, but I wouldn’t recommend it. This royal rice
alone is reason enough to dine here.
A Menu Cross-Section
The Famous Kabob menu is extensive, including ten
appetizers and condiments; eleven kabob selections (chicken,
lamb, vegetable or beef); three different khoreshts (Persian
stews); and 5 poloes and cheloes (rice with a
selection of chicken, lamb or beef.) Many of the entrees are
available à la carte but then you’d miss out on that
heavenly rice! Beer and wines are available, but the
authentic adult drink is doog, a yogurt drink made
with herbs and yogurt that is prepared, of course, on the
premises. The first taste can be a surprise but this drink
really does complement the food. And of course the menu
includes authentic Persian desserts.
Sam told me his next menu addition will be a skewered game
hen served on a bed of rice. I for one can hardly wait to try
it. For those with special requirements, Halal
foods, that is foods that are approved for consumption by
people who hold strict Muslim beliefs, are available on
request.
Persian cuisine is a relatively new taste to American
palates. If you are in the mood for something new and
different, and find yourself in the area, this is a not-to-be
missed dining experience.
To get to Famous Kabob from the Interstate
80 Business freeway, take the Arden Way exit (see map). From
the Red Lion, the Red Lion Sacramento Inn (1401 Arden Way,)
or the Sacramento Hilton take Arden way south and east to
Fulton Avenue. Turn right on Fulton. to Hurley. The Famous
Kabob will be on your left, directly across the intersection.
[See Map
and Contact Information, Below]
