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Lyon
is a city that you can have your cake and eat it too.
Quickly becoming a rival to Paris, it appeals to both the urbanite
and outdoorsman. Lyon has
both an active romantic city with the peaceful escape of the rolling green
hills and quaint villages nearby. The city offers a quick retreat from the
strung out life in Paris via a quick train ride.
Lyons
city center is the Presqu'ile, a peninsula joined by two rivers the Rhone
and the Saone. This is the
shopper's utopia of trendy stores with out the Parisian price tags.
Even in high tourist season I found the prices reasonable.
There is an outdoor market along the quai des Celestins where you
can find typical French products like aromatic cheese, fresh sausages, and
a variety of fruits and vegetables direct from local farms.
If
it is history and atmosphere you crave check out Vieux Lyon-Old Lyon.
With its narrow cobblestone streets and amazing colorful houses it
is considered one of the best examples of renaissance architecture.
There are plenty of outdoor cafes along the small winding streets
to get you in a relaxed mood. Be
sure to order a chocolate fondue cake and a glass of cider.
After
relaxing in the cafe why not work off those extra calories by walking up
the steep slopes of the Fouviere to the famous church Basilique de Notre
Dame. I suggest you wear your walking shoes and take the path through the
Jardin de Roseries which is filled with lush plants and incredible views
of Lyon's dusty red roof tops.
Once
you reach the top take a moment to breath, you will need it, and
appreciate the panoramic views of Lyon. Once a clear day you can see the
Alps and even in tourist season there is plenty of elbow room, a nice
change from Paris.
The
elegant church which presides over Lyon was built in 1896 during the
Franco-Prussian war, but lacks the strength and presence of the cathedrals
of Paris. If you continue
down the road in front of the church you will stumble onto the Gallo-Roman
museum. The museum is also
home to Roman theaters which you can enjoy for free.
A great place to have a picnic with some gastronomic treats of
region, this means meat and lots of it.
Lyon
has a reputation as one of the culinary capitals of Europe.
If you are not a strict vegetarian you can find many bouchons,
small intimate restaurants, that serve plenty of local meat specialties.
Still, for the non carnivores, you can find pizza and sand-which shops.
At
night the city of Lyon is transformed into a warm bath of lights.
A must see is La Place des Terreaux, the huge square in front of
the city hall. There you can have a coffee and watch the 69 illuminated
water sprouts dance to the rhythm of the summer night.
I
enjoyed the city but was ready for a quiet day in a less industrialized
place. Luckily, we were
staying with locals, thanks to my French boyfriend, and had our own tour
guides. We woke up early one
stormy summer morning and set out for the village Izeron, about a 20
minute drive from Lyon. One
the way, we parked our car near a little path called Py Froid, and hiked
through the green hills freckled with poppies, wild strawberries and
pre-historic ferns. It was a
revitalizing
promenade. After, we enjoyed
a crepe and a bottle of local cider in the small friendly village of
Izeron. The warm summer
storms and teh sweet cider gave the village a surreal quality, like
somewhere out of a fairy tale.
The
next day weather permitted so we decided to take a private plane ride over
the hills of Lyon. Our
friends are members of one the smallest airports in Europe, Aero Club de
L'ouest Lyonais. If you can
learn how to take off and land here you are considered a very qualified
pilot due to the strong winds and tiny landing strip (400 meters long).
Not for the faint hearted.
Even
if you are not a member you can rent a plane and a pilot for somewhere
around 50 dollars for two people (20 minute flight)
One
last stop was the medieval of Perouges. It is known mostly for its church Sainte Marie Madaline built
in the time of Joan of Arc and its tarte sucre.
It is filled with history and small specialized shops along its
cobblestone streets. If
you are lucky you will catch the Troubadours, the village carolers
carrying on the tradition of the times past.
I highly recommend stopping by these medieval villages in France
which can leave you with a magical experience.
It
is understandable why Lyon is considered a rival to Paris with its
diversity and lower prices, not to mention its geographical location. The
Riviera and the Alps are both about 2 hours away by high speed train.
Lyon's radiance has been compared to the likes of Milan and
Barcelona, only with less crowds. The warmth of the people and surprises
of its country side make it a must see in France.
To
receive more information on the events contact the tourist office of Lyon
at 04 72 69 69 69 at the place Bellecour
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Email: schulz_mel@yahoo.com (Melissa Shulz)
Melissa
Schulz is an American living in France. She has been traveling over a year to various destinations like Kosovo,
Macedonia, Greece.
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