Sicilian Gastronomy

By Martin Li

No, it isn’t the glistening deep azure seas that surround Sicily or the island’s hauntingly-beautiful landscapes. Neither is it Sicily’s extraordinary wealth of classical ruins and cultural treasures. Unbelievably, it isn’t even the Mafia "offers you can’t refuse" immortalized by Francis Ford Coppola’s trilogy of Godfather films. What is Sicily’s most notable claim to fame? Answer: gastronomy! Sounds impossible? Well, consider three important facts:

Fact One: Inhabited since classical times, Sicily’s strategic position in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea has made it a desirable target of conquest for over two thousand years. The Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spanish successively ruled here. These numerous occupiers have bequeathed the island a cultural heritage, including a cuisine, that is rich, varied and grand.

Fact Two: Sicily is blessed with over 300 days of sunshine each year and enjoys short mild winters. Some Sicilians regard the summer as stretching from January to August. Catania on Sicily’s eastern coast recorded 2,518 hours of sunshine in one year, a European record. Most food crops grow enthusiastically and to full-flavored ripeness in such a climate and Sicily once served as the breadbasket of the Roman empire.

Fact Three: Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano, dominates the skyline of eastern Sicily and its aura pervades the whole island. Etna has left the island a devastating legacy through its ruinous eruption of 1669. However, it also represents a symbol of hope and re-birth, most notably by providing its lowlands with a rich abundance of fertile volcanic soil.

This fusion of so many cultures combined with ideal conditions for cultivating fine natural produce creates an exuberant, aromatic and intensely-flavored style of gastronomy that characterizes Sicilian cooking.

Olive trees grow wild and in abundance on Sicily. The island is one of Italy’s main orange growing regions and produces 90 per cent of the lemon crop. The orange and lemon orchards are so large and prevalent that the scent of citrus blossoms fills much of the Sicilian countryside. Grape vines, pistachios, hazelnuts, almonds and pine nuts also abound and the vegetable crop includes artichokes, onions, aubergines, broccoli, celery and, of course, tomatoes. Small herds of sheep, cattle and goats wander, seemingly untended, and graze on the hillsides.

Catania, Sicily’s second city and provincial capital, is a good starting point for exploring the island’s gastronomy. The city’s perfectly planned streets are a marvel of civic design and nowhere do you feel the influence of Etna more strongly than here. The volcano’s massive outline forms an ever-present backdrop to many panoramas. Lava outcrops seem to be everywhere. The Catanese constructed many of their buildings and roads from this sombre, gray lava stone. The prevalence of palm trees bears witness to the hot, sunny climate.

Hidden behind a fountain and sunken below street level at one corner of the city’s ostentatiously-Baroque Piazza Duomo lies Catania’s busy fish market (la pescheria). Sprawling out from the hectic central market area, the red-canopied stalls fill the adjoining narrow streets and alleyways. The market sells all varieties of seafood including tuna, swordfish, sabre fish, mussels and translucently-fresh prawns and squid. Vendors also peddle meat, fruit, vegetables, cheese and nuts. The labyrinthine layout and widespread haggling betray the market’s Saracen influences and are more reminiscent of an Arab souk than a European market.

Driving north along the coast from Catania towards Acireale, it’s easy to appreciate the destructive effects of the huge earthquake which struck in 1693, just 24 years after Etna’s great eruption. The tremor created a marked faultline in the landscape and elevated much of the surrounding area such that today Acireale sits high on a plateau some 160 meters above sea level.

This is a region of beautiful coastline and lush vegetation. Known as La Timpa, many wealthy Catanese favor this coastline for their isolated villas. Small vineyards and orchards perch on perilous terraces, reclaimed by defiant islanders for agriculture from the steep slope torn by the earthquake.

Even more impressive than La Timpa is the stunning panorama of the Ionian Sea you can enjoy from the beautiful and secluded, tree-lined cobbled path that winds its way down from Acireale to Santa Maria La Scala. Descending initially in long sweeping hairpins, this consummate "lover’s lane" passes a small ruined chapel before increasingly tighter turns finally bring you to sea level and the outskirts of this picturesque fishing village.

Santa Maria La Scala is a perfect hideaway for those seeking calm and sanctuary from the hustle and bustle of Sicilian city life. Huddled around its 17th century church, the village boasts a tobacconist, fishing tackle shop, ice cream parlor and no fewer than five restaurants. Dine on the shaded, seaview terrace of Ristorante Al Morino (set on the promenade half way between the base of the path from Acireale and the village centre) or try La Grotta di Strano or Don Giovanni (both on Via Scalo Grande in the village centre).

With such a rich abundance of the finest freshest ingredients it’s difficult to imagine a poor meal in Sicily and so this proved to be the case. The most intensely-flavored wild mushrooms provided a wondrous yet simple pasta sauce. Different varieties of the freshest fish baked under a deep crust of sea salt needed no further assistance than a light drizzling of olive oil and lemon juice to bring out their full tender flavors.

Dotted with the fortified farmhouses of Catania’s grand families, the Plain of Catania is the island’s most fertile area. Half an hour’s drive west of the city, we arrived at the farm of La Palma where the owners grow oranges, lemons, grapes and olives and also make their own wines. Passing through its high iron gates and following the long and impressive stone facade of the house, we encountered a cacophony of farm noises led by tethered dogs, chickens and a pen of playful, pawing puppies. Beyond the main house, adjoining chapel and wine store hid the comfortable, rustic barn where visitors come to experience fine local cooking in idyllic rural seclusion.

The warmly-welcoming Giovanna Modica directs the cooking at La Palma and also runs her own farmhouse restaurant, Azienda Casabianca, which we visited the following day. South West of Catania, just beyond the border with the province of Syracuse, Casabianca occupies a totally remote setting near the Lago di Lentini, Sicily’s largest lake. Casabianca comprises a solid-walled complex of farm buildings. As with the dining arrangements at La Palma, guests come here to enjoy authentic Sicilian cooking in comfortable converted barns and stables set around a delightful central courtyard. La Palma and Casabianca are leading examples of the agro-tourism centres which are starting to appear around the Sicilian countryside.

Plates of pane con sato (literally bread with filling) arrived early at both farmhouses. This comprised fresh ciabatta bread moistened with olive oil and filled sparingly with finely-chopped garlic, onions, tomato, herbs and anchovies. Originally a food for peasants and deceptively simple to prepare, we could have happily feasted on this alone. The addition of orange zest to more traditionally seasoned risotto provided a curious yet effective variation to this classic Italian dish.

Vegetables are hugely important in Sicily. One of the favorite vegetable recipes in eastern Sicily is known as "alla Norma", named after the Bellini opera which inaugurated Catania’s richly ornate opera house. Mix fried aubergine with salted ricotta cheese, garlic, basil and fresh tomato sauce to create a delicious dish which we devoured on its own but which also makes a wonderful pasta sauce or bread topping.

Sicilians have a unique way of cooking artichokes. They loosen the leaves, season with herbs and sea salt, drizzle on olive oil and grill the artichokes on a bed of embers. The artichokes are ready when the outer leaves are charred, leaving a tender heart and an exquisite flavor.

My favorite of the main dishes was without doubt the involtini. You can prepare involtini in a number of regional variations and this one consisted of thin strips of veal seasoned with finely-chopped onions and herbs, rolled onto a skewer, coated with breadcrumbs and grilled over a wood fire. The succulence and flavor of the meat justified sacrificing many more of the previous offerings than I had managed.

Cassata and cannoli are Sicily’s most renowned desserts. Cassata is a cake (or ice cream variant) made with marzipan, ricotta cheese and candied fruit. Cannoli is a deep-fried pastry filled with ricotta cheese, candied fruit and chocolate. Wild strawberries made an excellent accompaniment to the ice creams and sorbets for which Sicily is also rightly famous. Refreshing water-ice granitas in coffee, almond and melon flavors are popular in cafes and ice cream parlors. Not surprising given that summer temperatures often rise above 40 C.

Sicily, like many regions of Italy, is a voluminous producer of wine. Reflecting the large overall output only 10-12% of Italian wines qualify for the coveted DOC (denominazione di origine controllata) quality standard. The Benanti family from Viagrande on the southern slopes of Etna has been making wine for three generations. Theirs are some of the few wines of the Etna region which boast the DOC standard. The family commenced commercial production in 1992 and now has an annual output of 200,000 litres, of which they export 80%.

The widely-acclaimed Benanti reds, Rovittello and Lamoremio, are particularly pleasant and satisfying. They also make perfect partners for Sicilian cuisine. And for that marvelous cuisine, we should all drink a toast of thanks to the island’s many invaders of the past and to the fiery mountain from which so much good and bad has emanated.

For further information contact the Catania Tourist Board on tel +39 095 7306 211, fax +39 095 316 407 (remember it’s necessary to dial the "0" before the area code for international calls to Italy). Alitalia flies to Catania about ten times daily from each of Rome and Milan (Malpensa) airports.

Hotel Orizzonte, just outside Acireale (tel +39 095 886 006, fax +39 095 765 1607), offers comfortable three star accommodation in a secluded spot high on the coastal plateau and has sea views from its restaurant terrace. Don’t forget your sunglasses if taking breakfast al fresco as the sun reflecting off the sea can be blinding. Room rates (with breakfast) are L190,000 ($105) for a single and L270,000 ($149) for a twin.

Contact Giovanna Modica directly at Azienda Agrituristica Casabianca in Lentini on +39 095 313 206.

Martin Li is a freelance travel and lifestyles writer based in London. Born in Hong Kong, his family moved to London when he was three. After graduating from Cambridge University with a degree in physics, Martin worked initially in high level positions in financial services and capital markets.  Martin has published a number of books and articles and his topics frequent include his parchment for hideaways destinations, adventure trips, and sports travel. (More about this author).

Email: martinli@mistral.co.uk (Martin Li)